For many months I have been trying to find, or to have repaired, the exhaust ports/bumper extensions for my 1955 Imperial. I am convinced they are simply unavailable anywhere. I've found a "master craftsman" who comes extremely highly recommended and has devoted his entire adult life to restoring classic cars. He keeps as busy as he wants to be, and often turns down work if it doesn't seem to require his level of skill and can be handled at a typical body shop.

This gentleman has agreed to make a template of my old bumper extensions, and then to reproduce new ones that he says will be a very near perfect match to the originals. I'll be giving him the entire rear bumper, as well as the backup light lenses, to insure everything fits properly. My estimated cost right now is $750.00 for the pair, however, much of the work will involve making an accurate template. Therefore, the price of subsequent sets would go down "dramatically".

Thought this might be a good time for other IMLers with '55's to go together and replace these parts if needed, and get a "group rate". He indicated that he could probably make 5 sets for about $400-$500 a pair. Won't know for sure though until he sees how much time is required to make the first set.

If you have questions for him, he can be contacted at:

Mr. John K. Smith
Kustomizing & Restoration of Klassics & Kustoms
3101 Massachusetts Ave.
Indianapolis, IN 46218
(317) 638-6454

From Gautene:

Question from Bill:

The antenna connector to the radio is missing from my 1955 antenna. My radio repairperson tells me that I just can’t attach a replacement connector. Instead I have to find or purchase another antenna. Has anyone attached a connector? Or maybe there is someone selling new antennas that makes a good replacement antenna?

Reply from Steve:

Yes, probably 50, Sounds like your radio man wants your old antenna. Buy a $5.00 antenna that plugs into your radio, then splice the cable to your old antenna. Throw the new antenna away. Try to keep the braid as close as possible to each other. Today's signals are so strong you will probably lose nothing.

Question from Bill:

Months ago I assumed that I had purchased all the weather stripping (doors, roof rail, window sweeps, etc.) required for the '55 2 door Imperial from Andy Bernbaum. My assumption was incorrect. Question #1: Does anyone know the correct part number and where to get the weather stripping that goes under the stainless steel panel that covers the pillar between the front windshield and the vent window. Question #2 I have applied the door weather stripping, but is there special stripping (about 1 foot) that branches and forms a "y" off the main door weather stripping. It looks like it forms a seal to keep rain away from the door weather stripping. Again does anyone have part number and a source.

Reply from Elijah:

After pouring through the Parts Catalog for about an hour (these things just don't get any easier to read, do they?!?!?!?), I think I've at least found the right part numbers for you. The weatherstrip you mention in question #1 is the rubber frame channel trough, part numbers 1621 882 (right) and 1621 716 (left). The same part numbers are also used for the '55-'56 New Yorker and DeSoto, which may help in cross-referencing. The weatherstrip for #2 is listed as Weatherstrip, Rubber -- 10 1/2 inches long, part number 1684 516 (sides are interchangeable). Again, the same part number is used for the New Yorker and DeSoto. If you need to look these up, #1 was in section 23-59-66 of the Parts Catalog, and #2 was in 23-63-14.

From Bill:

I feel a little foolish but if it saves other mid 50's owners some money or restores full switch function it was worth it. Several weeks ago I sent my master window switch (controls all 4 power windows) out for repairs. Some posts were broken off and some switches did not work well. The cost was $200 and I was satisfied with the restored switch performance when it returned. Last week I took my front seat apart to have the lower panels repainted. This time the 2 power seat switches were going to need repairs. Not looking forward spending $100 to repair the switches I was determined to see if I could fix them. I was quite surprised to see that the phenolic sections were not glued or welded, but rather held together by two clips. I repaired the broken post and cleaned all contacts. Switches works like a charm.

Question from Doug:

I need to remove the trim moldings along each side of a four door sedan to sand and paint the body. Does anybody know how the pieces are removed as this subject is not covered in the shop manual? Do they snap off or do I have to unscrew them from the inside? also there are no instructions on removing the stainless steel piece between the rear wheel well and the rear bumper on each side of the car.

From Robbie:

To remove the side trim from the doors you must take off the door panels and unbolt the trim from the inside. This is the same as the 56. You must first get the door handles off. this is the hard part. they are held on by an L shaped clip. I made an L shaped tool by bending a pocket screw driller into an L shape. Force the door panel back away from the handle as far as possible with out damaging anything then use your L shaped tool to pry on the clip until it turns loose. The clip is L shaped but also has a closed U that is vertical pry this apart with your tool and the clip should come off don't loose it. I am taking apart a 56 now so e-mail me if you have more questions.

Question from Hubert:

Where can I get NOS engine bay decals?

Reply from Terry:

You can get those decals from Gary Goers Contact info: Gary Goers 37 Amdahl Lane Kalispell, Montana 59901 406/752-6249 phone/fax 15% for shipping

Question from Michael:

 I need a speedometer cable for my 1955 Imperial. I have  received two quotes for a NOS replacement part with a wide price variance.  The reason being that the cheaper one says that all "large Chrysler  products" use a 69 inch speedometer cable. Is this possible? The second one wants to charge three times as much and did not seem to have time for my questions. Maybe someone has one they want to sell or knows a good place to buy one.

Reply from Arran: