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Model 800: 1956 Imperials and earlier
Imperial Home Page -> Repair -> Accessories -> Gas Heater -> Page 6
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         37. NO HEAT a. Clogged fuel nozzle.
           b. No fuel pressure, or low fuel pressure c. Ignition failure. d. Insufficient combustion air. Although
          these causes of failure are listed in the order of probability, it is
          advisable to check simple causes first to avoid unnecessary
          disassembly of heater. Proceed with the check as
          follows:   e.
          With ignition switch on and car engine NOT running, turn heater blower
          switch on. The fresh air blower should start immediately. Failure of
          this blower indicates a defect in blower switch, fuse, blower, or in
          associated wiring. The burner blower motor and pump assembly should
          also start when switch is turned on. Failure of this motor to start
          can be caused by a defective blower switch. A defective coupling
          between motor and fuel pump will cause loss of fuel pressure, even if
          motor is running. Check voltage at red terminal of ignition, unit with
          a teat light or voltmeter and if voltage is satisfactory, replace
          burner blower motor. f. If
          both blowers run, check the fuel control valve by removing the white
          lead from terminal block on front of heater case. Touch this lead to
          terminal and listen carefully for a click as valve opens and closes.
          (The temperature control should be in HIGH HEAT position for this
          test). The click of valve is rather faint, but can be heard when
          engine is not running. If valve fails to click, shut off ignition,
          remove four screws from heater cover and lift it out far enough to
          install a jumper wire directly between white terminal inside case and
          white terminal of the solenoid valve. Disconnect overheat switch wires
          from these terminals but leave all other wires connected. Temporarily
          replace cover of heater case and turn on ignition. Touch white lead to
          terminal on front of case again and check for valve action. If valve
          fails to click with overheat switch shorted out, check voltage at
          white lead with a test light or meter. If lead is hot, and valve fails
          to click with overheat switch shorted out, the fuel valve solenoid
          coil is defective and must be replaced.   CAUTION Do not permit the white
          lead to touch ground while making these tests.  
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         g.
        If the solenoid valve is operating properly, it will be necessary to
        cheek the ignition unit. TURN IGNITION SWITCH OFF. Separate two sections
        of ignition cable at the connector. Insert a dual-electrode automotive
        type plug in end of ignition unit section of ignition cable and ground
        plug to engine block. This plug should be adjusted to a gap of .085
        inches. Turn ignition and heater switches on and check the plug for a
        hot spark. If there is no spark, the ignition unit is defective and must
        be repaired.  
 
 CAUTION
         Be
        sure burner is properly grounded and avoid touching any part of assembly
        during this test.  
 
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This page last updated April 25, 2001. Send us your feedback, and come join the Imperial Mailing List - Online Car Club
