Imperial Homepage -> Repair -> Air Conditioning -> Install
Warnings from Brett:
My experience adding a factory AC system to a car is that it isn't worth the hassle. I did this on the '60 Crown Coupe and '62 Crown Convertible I owned. Sure, I did manage to get cold air blowing inside the cars... but things never quite worked 100%. The labyrinth of vacuum hoses never seemed to all get connected properly, there were impossible to find cowl leaks, the whole pulley system on the front of the engine never quite lined up perfectly, etc., etc.
It's a job to consider when a car is all apart. You've got to change the radiator, alternator and most all of the engines pulleys. Not to mention the heater core assembly on both sides of the cowl, and that's just the beginning...
The '61 Crown Convertible I own today HAS factory AC, but I've never spent the time & money to get it working because I'd almost never use it. (If it looks like rain, I stay in or drive something with a roof) And I live in hot, muggy South Florida.
Tips from Brett on how to install and what you will need:
Of course the best way to do this is to start with an A/C equipped parts car.
1. New Radiator. The A/C radiators have the upper hose connection moved to the right and are thicker than non-A/C radiators.
2. Swap Pulleys. You'll need to change-over the pulleys with an A/C equipped engine including the alternator. I don't remember if the alternator bracket changes as well.
3. Add Fan Clutch. All A/C cars were equipped with a fan clutch to aid in cooling at higher speeds.
4. Swap Cowl Unit. Replace the heater core equipped unit with the A/C unit.
Test the new heater core for leaks first. Make an extra effort to insure the unit seals against the cowl to prevent water from leaking into the car's interior. The A/C blower motor runs at tree speeds, so if the heater motor is only a 2-speed unit, it may need to be swapped too.
5. Add Driver's A/C Vent. 61-63 Imperials with A/C added a chrome vent beneath the dash to the left of the steering column.
6. Reconfigure Dash Layout. The 61-63 A/C Cars added a "Floor Air" knob to the dash configuration. You may need to move some switches around to accommodate this feature.
7. Add A/C Control. The A/C unit will swap with the heater buttons, but I'm not sure about the electrical connections involved. You'll also need to hook up the vacuum lines to the actuators. (You did keep them all connected, didn't you?) and the heater control cable.
8. New Dash Grille. Install the A/C version of the speaker/vent grille in the center of the dash. Connect duct work, including the new duct by the driver's legs.
9. Add Condenser & NEW Dryer.
10. Add Compressor. Rebuilt Chrysler RV-2 compressors a fairly inexpensive, so have the unit checked-out before charging up the entire system. You'll also need to attach all hoses, brackets and the expansion valve. I'm not sure where the wire comes from to engage the clutch though.
Well, that's what I remember from the A/C change over I did. Hopefully someone can address the electrical wires and where they come from...
Follow-up question from Luke:
I wonder if you could elaborate slightly on these first three parts? I didn't receive these with my order and will have to find out where they are and if I can get them from the parts car I've been stripping.
1. New Radiator. The A/C radiators have the upper hose connection moved to the right and are thicker than non-A/C radiators.
2. Swap Pulleys. You'll need to change-over the pulleys with an A/C equipped engine including the alternator. I don't remember if the alternator bracket changes as well.
3. Add Fan Clutch. All A/C cars were equipped with a fan clutch to aid in cooling at higher speeds.
It's mainly the 'Fan Clutch' that I was wondering about, is this the clutch on the pump or is there another one on the fan?
Reply from Brett:
>I wonder if you could elaborate slightly on these first three parts? I >didn't receive these with my order and will have to find out where they >are and if I can get them from the parts car I've been stripping.
>1. New Radiator. The A/C radiators have the upper hose connection moved >to the right and are thicker than non-A/C radiators.
You can probably still use your existing radiator.... You'll need to have the upper hose connection moved to the right and have it re-cored with a thicker core.
>2. Swap Pulleys. You'll need to change-over the pulleys with an A/C >equipped engine including the alternator. I don't remember if the >alternator bracket changes as well.
The A/C compressor requires two matched belts that go from the crankshaft to the compressor then over to the generator and back. This created the need for an idler pully to run between the crankshaft and the fan. I believe the fan and power steering pullies remain the same. It's best for you to get a picture of this configuration.
>3. Add Fan Clutch. All A/C cars were equipped with a fan clutch to aid >in cooling at higher speeds.
>It's mainly the 'Fan Clutch' that I was wondering about, is this the >clutch on the pump or is there another one on the fan?
A fan clutch would bolt onto the water pump. Then fan blades are bolted onto the clutch. You cannot use your non-A/C fan blade.
Again, photos of the A/C system under the hood would be indispensable.
Check the '60 Service Manual. You should also know that 1960 was a transitional year for Chrysler engineering in some areas. Your car could be equipped with either a generator or an alternator depending on when it was made. They changed the A/C compressors during the year as well. Some cars have the earlier, large clutch while other have the newer small clutch. The small clutch unit is the easy one to get parts for and cheaper to rebuild.
Question from Dennis (1953):
Does anyone know if a 1953 Custom Imperial with 6 volt system can have A/C added to the car? It seems to me that converting to 12 volt would be difficult with all the power items like power seats, windows, etc.?
Replies:
From Kerry:
You'd have to find a 6V AC clutch. The rest can be added. The original 53-54 AC was clutch-less and the compressor ran all the time. I don't know if the 55 was still 6V or not but do know it had a clutch on the AC. Other than that you could easily install an aftermarket system. Hot rod AC places sell under dash systems, again 12V.
There are systems to run 12V on one part and 6V on the rest.
Do what you want but a modern rotary compressor would really stick out in the 53 engine compartment, at least imho.
From Roger:
Run a two battery system in system and use the extra for the 12volt stuff or go to the 9 volt battery. I hear that works too.
Question from Rex (1959):
I am wondering if it is an insurmountable task to add a/c to a non-air car and if the car has other differences that need to be considered, like the generator, springs, etc? I own a '59 with air, but, as you know, the control system is very different being vacuum actuated, so I was thinking the 57-58's might be a bit easier.
Reply from Philippe:
Problem between A/C and non A/C car is (except compressor, evaporator, condenser etc..) under the dash! Non A/C car has a manual air duct / cowl doors which is actuates by a lever pedal. Heater housing is different. Also ducts and cowl door frame. In fact all the parts are different ... - A/C model 900 car has an hydraulic operated "recirculating/cowl door" actuated via the solenoid (2 doors, one under the cowl grille and the other behind the plenum chamber / evaporator; the doors are linked so when one is closed the other is open). If the solenoid doesn't work (or if you're in the "heat" toggle switch position) the cowl door remains open so you've always air coming from the cowl grille to the ducts, heated or non heated depending position of temp. lever. When you shut off the engine it's the same thing. When you put A/C on, the solenoid is energized and oil acts on power piston which opens the recirculating door (and closed the cowl door). Interior air of the car passes through this door, cooled by the evaporator and is distributed through the air ducts. You could also add heated air if you push the temperature lever to "warmer". So Hugh, don't worry, you'll always have exterior air in your car: plug the line coming from the "T" to the solenoid. But if you want a working A/C, you must have a working power piston. and new lines..
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